A Car Salesman, a Librarian, and Ten Thru Hikers Walk into a Hut..

Te Araroa Trail Days 30 - 33 (469km - 539km)

Two impassable rivers, the Rangitata and the Rakaia, divide the South Island. They’re marked as hazard zones on the Te Araroa and hikers are expected to shuttle around via bridges. Only one shuttle company services the very specific riverside locations, consequently charging astronomical prices. It would cost us over 500nzd each to walk this section “correctly.”

Some hikers choose to pay the big bucks, some bypass the region entirely, and some choose to risk the crossing.

Though usually queens of the hitchhike, we decided it wasn’t worth the risk of getting stranded on a forgotten dirt road over 50km away from civilization. But to skip the entire area meant missing Stag Saddle, the highest point on the Te Araroa, which comes just before the Rangitata river.

Our solution? Hike in two days to the saddle, turn around and hike back to Tekapo, a place where we could guarantee a hitch around both rivers.

The plan meant we would sacrifice the three day walk between the rivers. People who have done it say it’s worth it, but we think they only say that to justify the hundreds of dollars spent on shuttles or risking their life crossing the unforgiving Rangitata.

Day 30: January 2nd (26.3km)

Tekapo to Camp Stream Hut

Back on the trail after our three day hiatus at Mt Cook. Unfortunately began the day’s walk during peak heat. Sweaty and slow, we scouted for a shaded lunch spot. The only visible shade within the crispy valley was under a big shrub. There was also a bloody rabbit leg hanging in it. But we decided it was better to eat pressed against the spiky bush beneath a falcon’s leftovers, and claim a sliver of shade, than sit exposed to the mighty Kiwi sun.

We eventually arrived to the miniature Camp Stream Hut, a relic of 1898, when humans were half the size. We joined a few walkers inside. An hour later a tall gangly man appeared, crouching over to fit through the playhouse door. We introduced ourselves. “So you’re Maddie and Anna??” “I’ve been tailing you for the past two weeks!” Forrest (quick to explain this was his real name and not a trail name) had seen our names written in all the hut log books.

We spent a very fun night at Camp Stream with an eclectic crew.

Some of the characters of the night included:

Ollie, a French guy who spent the evening mending his shoes with a combination of floss and zip ties.

Simone the librarian, who ate all her meals with a hand carved wooden spoon.

Nick the car salesman, whose under-preparedness was made up by his charisma. He lugged water up from the stream for all twelve of us.

Forrest the Arkansas native, who had four months between the end of a job contract at the bottom of the country and a friend’s wedding in Auckland. He decided to walk to the wedding.

Josh and Harry, two Kiwi boys who we overhead singing Life is but a Dream while they cooked their dinner (awww). They told us about getting swept down the Rangitata two days before, which supported our decision to not cross.

Day 31 (22.75) & Day 32 (21km)

Jan 3 & 4 Stag Saddle and back

We followed the ridge line to Stag Saddle all morning atop streaky mountains. Splotchy patterns of pink hued rocks covered the ground below. Once arriving at the saddle, we continued up the peak for some awesome views. The Southern Alps stood tall to the West, Mt Cook chilling in the middle, and milky turquoise Lake Tekapo rested below.

Back to Camp Stream Hut for the night and back to Tekapo the next day.

Day 33: Jan 5th (Zero day)

The trail resumes on the northern side of the Rakaia river at Coleridge Village, a remote cluster of cottages. We stood waiting for a hitch, but barely any cars were passing and it was raining which never helps. Finally and old man pulled over.

“Where ya going?” he asked.

“Coleridge.”

“Where the hell is that?”

Damn. We were never gonna get a ride.

But then..

“Hop in girls it’s your lucky day! That’s exactly where I’m going.”

Coleridge Village only has 40 residents. Thank god Murray was one of them. He gave us a full history lesson and tour of the town (which included exiting the car into the rain multiple times) before dropping us off.

We’d heard rumblings about the delicious homemade cookies at the Coleridge Lodge for weeks now. We entered, and low behold there were five trays of cookies fresh out of the oven.

Alison and Andrew run a hiker haven out of their homey lodge. Andrew walked the trail last year and knows exactly how to make a TA walker’s day: pillows, towels, cookies.

We signed our name on the giant trail marker and then joined a group of seven Sobos (Southbound walkers) for hot chocolate by the fire. The great crossover has begun.

Until next time!

Maddie & Anna