Chronicles of Mud and Pasture

Te Araroa Trail Days 4-6 (75.9km - 131.74km)

Day 4: December 7 (29km)

Longwood Forest to Merriview Hut

We woke up after a long night of rain, thankful for our tent that kept us toasty dry. We set off, and instantly emerged from the forest onto an exposed stormy hilltop.

Wind threw us sideways and rain pierced our legs like little daggers. Fog blew past in thick streams, freezing off our fingers.

Survivor mode activated. Must reach shelter. We ran. After 4km of madness we dipped back into the forest and defrosted.

Then came the mud. Unavoidable, mammoth swallowing mud. Sometimes it ate us up to our ankles, other times up to our thighs. We battled this mud all day. Soggy, sloppy, soppy. That’s how we felt for 9 hours.

Even after using an industrial sized scrub brush and taking a soapy shower two days later, we still have mud caked legs, a permanent reminder of our trials in the Longwood forest.

That night we ended at a haven of a hut. Merriview hut is perched on a dry pasture, with views of snow topped mountains, and endless fields of sheep.

The hut is privately managed, one of the few on the trail that doesn’t accept our Department of Conservation hut pass. So based on the bills we had, we concluded that if Anna slept on a bed and Maddie slept in the tent, we could buy five farm eggs and pay with exact change.

We cooked our best meal yet, a heaping pot of ramen and jammy eggs. Still thinking about it.

Day 5: December 8 (26.74km)

Merriview Hut to Birchwood Station

The entirety of today was spent walking through private land. We thank the Te Araroa Trust for negotiating with landowners, and thank the farmers who willingly allow walkers to enter their pastures, despite wondering why anyone would choose to do this.

A lesson learned today: electric fences used for sheep feel like a gentle buzz (Anna grabbed one so Maddie could crawl under, oops) and electric fences used for cattle feel like getting shot with a bb gun (Maddie tried to pet a cow).

Another exciting find: every time we passed a cow pasture, every. single. cow stopped eating, got up from laying, and walked over to us. If we started singing, they’d run over. If you’re interested in beginning a musical career, but nervous about performing, find your nearest herd of cows, they are the most attentive audience.

They especially enjoyed our rendition of “Without Love” from Hairspray.

Eventually we exited the fields onto a long dirt road. A farm boy rode up to us in a dirt buggy towing a trailer of sheep dogs.

“We got some cattle coming down the road, when you see ‘em hide in the grass so they don’t get spooked and run off”

We crouched as low as we could. A few curious eyes looked our way, but none got spooked.

Once the herd passed, we met Sarah and Dean, trailing behind the cows and sheep dogs on their quad bikes. They’ve been hosting Te Araroa walkers on their farm for the past eight years.

Sarah offered us a ride on her ATV to the hiker cabin. She wore oversized black sunglasses, gold hoops, and blue linen top. Outfit completed with muddy gumboots - farm girl chic. We watched the sheep dogs zigzag behind the cattle with laser focus. Her seven year old son powered on his dirt bike beside.

We got to the cabin and took the first hot shower of the trail. Bliss.

That evening the place filled up with five other hikers, the most we’ve met thus far. :)

Day 6: December 7 (first rest day!)

About time we had a rest.

This morning Dean blasted by on his quad bike, dragging what appeared to be a sheep carcass. A storm of dust followed and all five dogs chased behind. The happiest dogs we’ve ever seen.

Todays mission: Veg.

Until next time!

Maddie & Anna