Fog and False Summits

Te Araroa Trail Days 16-20 (301km - 371km)

Anna & Maddie

Dec 23, 2023

But first - How to resupply in Queenstown without a car

1. Wake at the crack of dawn because our bodies are on hiker time.

2. Hitch into town and purchase soaps to bathe and launder.

3. Wash every item of clothing at laundromat, except for one pair of shorts.

4. Wear rain jacket and said pair of shorts for steps 5 & 6.

5. Find abandoned cardboard boxes to mail food package to the mountains we’ll climb next month.

6. Get coffee and charge devices at cafe next door.

7. Retrieve laundry, change out of raincoat into clothes suitable for a summers day.

8. Go to Pak n Save (hangry) and buy lunch food.

9. Make and eat epic lunch in the parking lot. Salad kit with added shredded chicken and avocado, a pint of yogurt and a family size bag of chips each.

10. Return to Pak n Save to purchase 11 days worth of food. Run into our trail friends at the bulk section!

11. Organize massive food haul on the ground outside store.

12. Hitch to post office and send package to our future selves.

13. Crash at wonderful Sonoma friend Jenna Ebert’s place! Jenna and her friend Lauren spoiled us with wine and a home cooked meal. So grateful. Nourished and alive once again :)

Back on the trail tomorrow.

Day 17: December 20 (19.65km)

Queenstown to Arrowtown

Our final task before leaving civilization was to acquire some festive attire. We scored with 80 cent Santa hats.

Just as we geared up in our Christmas garb and set off for the day, a man leaped out of his seat at a cafe.

“Hey are you TA walkers??” “Let me buy you breakfast!”

Unfortunately we were already full on butter chicken pies, but we gladly welcomed a smoothie and chatted to this enthusiastic prospective TA walker. We’re so appreciative for the generosity we’ve received on the trail! Inspired to pay it forward.

Today’s walk was mostly along suburban cycle paths between two towns. Residents may have been confused by the sight of two Christmas elves plodding around their neighborhoods with big packs and hiking poles. We decided to hitch the last 5km into Arrowtown, after passing by a sewage treatment plant and one cul de sac too many. A father daughter duo picked us up, along with their pet bird who bounced freely around the SUV. Darling the parakeet bit Maddie and pooped on the seat.

We spent the night at our hiker pal’s childhood home. Two nights in a row of hot showers and real pillows, wow!

Day 18: December 21 (25km)

Arrowtown to Roses Hut

Into the mountains! Hiker lore had warned us for the most beautiful yet demanding section thus far. The trail turned vertical immediately upon exiting Arrowtown. Once we dropped down again, we met some walkers that suggested we take an alternative river route before the day’s big saddle.

Spent about three hours inside of the river. At first we attempted bush bashing along the shore but then decided it would be cooler and quicker to just walk straight up, like salmon swimming upstream.

Sopping wet, we reconnected to the main trail for the final 700 meter climb. At the top, the evening fog opened to reveal the itty bitty hut way down in the valley below.

We arrived at Roses hut and joined a full house. Such a fun night with an eclectic mix of folks - a family with three children, a mother daughter pair, and some solo adventurers.

All twelve us us were tucked into bed by 9pm.

Day 19: December 22 (16.84km)

Roses Hut to Fern Burn Hut

Big day. We’d been mentally preparing to conquer our first real climbs for some time now.

We entered into a morning of fog and false summits. We walked over rolling ridge lines, plunged down into the valley below, and straight back of the mountains. Learned today that Te Araroa is a switch-back free zone.

A hut rested between peaks 2 and 3. The perfect lunch spot. Made wraps with questionable cheese and wilted greens that had been sitting unrefrigerated for an afternoon too long.

One climb left! We saw the entirety of the path from river to summit carving the most direct route up a ridge. Two snails inched up the slope.

Once again, we hobbled to our hut destination of the night.

Today was the most physically challenging but most rewarding day yet. Mountain stoke!!! We devoured an elaborate curry noodle dinner: lentils cold soaked during day then boiled with dehydrated peas, coconut milk powder, korma sauce powder, ramen and rice noodles. Yum.

Today was the longest day of the year. We celebrated the solstice by falling asleep two hours before dark.