Nelson Lakes!!!!

Te Araroa Trail Days 44 - 57 (719km - 937km)

Days 44 - 48: January 16-20 (165km)

Due to some weather issues, the theme of the past two weeks was choose your own adventure. It all started with a three day walk to the base of Waiau Pass. We woke up on day four, eager to conquer Waiau, but the wind and rain sounded like they could take down the entire forest.

The hut on the other side of the pass was only 10 kilometers away! But we concluded that the risk outweighed the reward, so in great sadness we turned around to walk all the way back. On the bright side, we found an alternative loop, met a herd of wild horses, made bomb quesadillas on a hut fireplace, and got back to the road in two days instead of three.

We could have waited out the weather to reattempt the route, but we thought it’d be more fun to overcomplicate things, hitchhike for four hours, stop at the beach, then rejoin the trail from the north end.

We waited on the side of the highway for a hitch while literally being blown over by the wind. We knew the town of Nelson was in one direction and Blenheim was in the other, but had no idea which one was closer because we had no service. So we stood on the Nelson side of the road for a while with our thumbs out, but no luck, so we crossed and tried for a hitch on the other side because it really didn’t matter where we were going just somewhere that wasn’t here!! We got picked up in no time by couple from Ohio.

A few minutes into the drive, the wife, in the kindest Midwestern tone:

“Can I just suggest something real quick?”

“You both should really shower tonight.”

Days 49 - 50: January 21-22 (0km)

The whirlwind back to the trail included a pit stop in Blenheim, the town where we worked a wine harvest last March. We stayed with a trail angel / winemaker who served us wine all day and also brought us to a free wine tasting at his winery. He then cooked us a steak dinner, and we each got to stay in our own room. What did we do to deserve this?? Thank you Tobi! So grateful.

And then the next day at the grocery store, we ran into not one but two old coworkers, Mr sexy boss man AND Mr giggle man supervisor from the wine harvest. Surprised they even recognized us in our scraggly “I’ve been hiking for 50 days” look.

Days 51 - 53: January 23-25 (59.25km)

Huge hitch complete and time to rejoin the TA, sobo this time.

We wanted to do some sort of loop but figured we’d just decide the route on trail, so we brought plenty of food and set off.

We entered Nelson Lakes National Park, the most anticipated section of Te Araroa, in all its glory. The skies opened up for us and sunshine poured into the lakes and valleys. A river filled with a week of rain roared alongside the track, shadowed by quiet peaks above. Photos don’t do justice of just how perfect it all was!

Had a big climb up Travers Saddle into the amazing New Zealand alpine. Waterfalls ribboned down the mountain faces and we filled our bottles to drink the most delicious water of all time. A bit chilly on top with snowflakes swirling in the air!

More epic track to reach Blue Lake the next day, which boasts the clearest water in the world. Researchers discovered visibility of up to 80 meters, which is equivalent to the clarity of distilled water.

We dropped our packs at the hut and day hiked up our old foe Waiau Pass (well, high enough to get a good view). Then spent the evening at the jam packed Blue Lake Hut down below.

A new species we’ve encountered over the past few weeks is the American Thru-Hiker. They’ve been entering the South Island in great numbers. We can instantly identify them by the Darn Tough sock and Altra trail runner combo, packs the size of school bags, and tents so light they look like crumpled plastic bags. We greet them by saying: “Tell us this is harder than the PCT!” And they deliver every time.

They’re usually eager to show us their cool ultra light gadgets, such as a cork ball to roll out sore muscles (very nifty) or a pot the size of a tea cup (not so nifty). We tell them our luxury items are an Aeropress for coffee, two different card games, journals, and a film camera. Theirs is a full sized tooth brush.

Another fun crew in the hut that night was a group of older Kiwi folk, who were anything but ultra light. Their gear was from the 80s and still going strong. We didn’t even know you could fill a pack up with that much stuff. Their conversations revolved around competing for who walked the slowest and who was waking up the earliest.

“No I’m slower!”

“No I’m slower”

“I usually look at the trail notes and add two hours to the walking times”

“Well I add three”

“If you’re getting up at 5am then I better get up at 4:30 because I’m way slower”

We hope they all made it over Waiau Pass safely.

Days 54 - 55: January 26-27 (28.75km)

Anna examined every single trail within Nelson Lakes to choose an awesome circuit for us. Instead of going over Waiau Pass, we’d go over the lesser known Moss Pass, then down a valley, over a mountain, past some lakes, and back to our start in St Arnaud seven days later.

Moss pass was stellar. We scrambled up a rocky chute then through a little notch to reach the top (are we mountaineers?). Passed so many cute tarns speckling the mountain tops on our way down down down to the valley floor.

Cruisy days in the jungle bog (started walking after 12). New enemy discovered: hook grass. The grass was unavoidable, draping over the entire trail ready to destroy. It has a two step attack. First it drags what feels like piercing needles across your legs and then it launches spears that latch into your leg hair and hang little ornaments. Hurts SO bad. We were screaming the whole way. Ouch ouch ouch. You’re welcome for spreading your seeds.

Days 56 - 57: January 28-29 (28.35km)

Back into the mountains. Up up up out of the bush, 900 meter climb over 2 kilometers ahh. Entered a martian landscape, the only living organisms were globs of moss that clung to the rocks like corals.

Descended to the pristine Angelus hut, perched between two lakes. Then ate every last crumb of food in our packs.

Final unexpected challenge before reaching civilization: a 3 hour ridge line walk battling EXTREME wind.

It felt like walking through a freezing river, but one with class 4 rapids that went way above your head. It thrashed us in every direction, blasted Maddie into a pile of sharp rocks, and we had to stop, drop, and hold on for dear life like 7 times. But we STAYED dry. And a day of dry feet is a day worth celebrating.

Heading back on trail tomorrow for another round of mountains. Yeehoo!

Until next time!

Maddie & Anna